The big spring gardening sales are finally starting up here on the frigid
"northcoast." I've noticed quite a few crabapple trees in 2-5 gallon pots
that look pretty nice, but of course the lowest branches are way to high.
Now, I realize there are significant differences between varieties, but just
wondering...do "typical" crabapple trees bounce back after severe trunk
chops that leave no foliage? Out of curiosity, does anyone have a list of
trees that will survive severe trunk chops - other than maples!?!

Thanks,

Jeff Isom
Cleveland, OH / Sunset Zone 39 and still snowing

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Jeff:
An alternative to trunk chopping would be to do an air layering higher
up on the trunk and save the topof the tree as is.

Carl L. Rosner

Isom, Jeff (EM, PTL) wrote:

The big spring gardening sales are finally starting up here on the frigid
"northcoast." I've noticed quite a few crabapple trees in 2-5 gallon pots
that look pretty nice, but of course the lowest branches are way to high.
Now, I realize there are significant differences between varieties, but just
wondering...do "typical" crabapple trees bounce back after severe trunk
chops that leave no foliage? Out of curiosity, does anyone have a list of
trees that will survive severe trunk chops - other than maples!?!

Thanks,

Jeff Isom
Cleveland, OH / Sunset Zone 39 and still snowing



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In a message dated 4/7/2003 10:10:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
writes:

The big spring gardening sales are finally starting up here on the frigid
"northcoast." I've noticed quite a few crabapple trees in 2-5 gallon pots
that look pretty nice, but of course the lowest branches are way to high.
Now, I realize there are significant differences between varieties, but
just
wondering...do "typical" crabapple trees bounce back after severe trunk
chops that leave no foliage? Out of curiosity, does anyone have a list of
trees that will survive severe trunk chops - other than maples!?!

Thanks,

Jeff Isom
Cleveland, OH / Sunset Zone 39 and still snowing


Jeff,
Crabapples bud back very well even if trunk chopped with no branches left.
I've personally done it here in South Florida to grow a trunk over several
years; several trunk chops to develop taper and girth to a pencil thin
sapling.

Luis Fontanills
Miami, Florida, USA

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I've noticed quite a few crabapple trees in 2-5 gallon pots that look pretty
nice, but of course the lowest branches are way too high.

That is not the problem. I wouldn't trunk chop a crabapple, but you can
gradually get budding lower down on the trunk, or use a thread graft. The main
problem with nursery trees is that they are grafted, & the graft union will be
very conspicuous. Since root hardiness is not an issue with bonsai, it is
better to buy cutting grown trees which are produced for bonsai, or if you see
something in the nursery which is particularly attractive, air-layer it. Before
you buy a crabapple, read Father Fiala's book to find out which ones are
disease resistant. Don't waste time or money on those that aren't.
Iris,
Central NY, Zone 5a, Sunset Zone 40
"If we see light at the end of the tunnel, It's the light of the oncoming
train."
Robert Lowell (1917-1977)

Jeff,

I agree with Iris here. I've been looking to get a Crabapple for myself this year.
I have shopped most of the local nursuries and found that ALL are grafts. Usually the
scoins are visible for several inches and suckers are already several inches long.
I've never air layered one, but am considering it. There are some Sargentii,
Snowdrift and nice Royalty's available, but Brent notes on his website that cuttings
from Royalty's are difficult. Anyway, just wanted to make the point that most of the
crabapples you find in nurseries are actually grafts so it could take several years to
layer it off and get some nice nebari going.

Mike Peck
Kansas City, MO
Zone 5

Jeff Isom wrote:

I've noticed quite a few crabapple trees in 2-5 gallon pots that look pretty
nice, but of course the lowest branches are way too high.


Iris replied:


That is not the problem. I wouldn't trunk chop a crabapple, but you can
gradually get budding lower down on the trunk, or use a thread graft. The main
problem with nursery trees is that they are grafted, & the graft union will be
very conspicuous. Since root hardiness is not an issue with bonsai, it is
better to buy cutting grown trees which are produced for bonsai, or if you see
something in the nursery which is particularly attractive, air-layer it. Before
you buy a crabapple, read Father Fiala's book to find out which ones are
disease resistant. Don't waste time or money on those that aren't.
Iris,

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For those considering air-layering Crab Apples. I've tried several and
never had the same sort of success that I do with many other species. I
have managed to root a couple but they were both very reluctant and then
only rooted in a one sided way. The only good news is that after eight
years I still have an ugly candidate for bonsai that is prettied by
flowers every spring.

Good luck

Kev Bailey

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mep5380 wrote:

Jeff,

I agree with Iris here. I've been looking to get a Crabapple for myself this year.
I have shopped most of the local nursuries and found that ALL are grafts.

snip

Mike Peck
Kansas City, MO
Zone 5


If you really want a crabapple good enough for bonsai, collect it! I have found some
great specimens in abandoned pastures.

Craig Cowing
NY
Zone 5b/6a

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I airlayered a crab apple 2 years ago about 3.5" in diameter. It needs lots
of work, but has potential for a hollow trunk. My first concern is to let
the nebari develop for at least 1-2 more years before I do any major design
work.


Alan Zucker zone 6b
You're never to old to learn. You can learn from both beginner and expert.





From: kevin bailey
Reply-To: kevin bailey
To:
Subject: [IBC] Trunk chopping a Crabapple
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 20:42:59 +0100

For those considering air-layering Crab Apples. I've tried several and
never had the same sort of success that I do with many other species. I
have managed to root a couple but they were both very reluctant and then
only rooted in a one sided way. The only good news is that after eight
years I still have an ugly candidate for bonsai that is prettied by
flowers every spring.

Good luck

Kev Bailey

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Thanks everyone for your input - you probably saved me from wasting some
money. Instead of a crabapple, I bought a nice little cotoneaster with a
nice 1 1/2" trunk. My aunt has a crabapple tree (has had it for probably 20
years with no problems, so apparantly it's a hardy type. I'm betting she'll
let me try an air layer on a branch. I also went and found some seeds from
various locations around here - they seem to like planting them at rest
areas in NE Ohio -so I planted those as well. I'll also try to find one at
a Bonsai nursery sometime this spring/summer.

Jeff Isom
Cleveland, OH / Sunset Zone 39

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