Hi,

We are looking after some privet plants (buxus sempervirens possibly?)
for a mate and noticed today that some of them have yellowing to the
tips? They are about 70cm in diameter.

Because of the weather and the fact they are in planters (probably 50
x 50 x 50 cm) we have been watering them every second or third day and
wondered if we are over watering them? ;-( FWIW, most of them seem
to drain (a couple pretty quickly) whilst / after watering so I'm
hoping they are draining ok.

I think he suggested about a 1/3rd of a watering can each every other
day if it was really hot and dry and upto maybe a week if it was dull,
cool or rainy?

He also suggested feeding them every couple of weeks (liquid bone
meal?) but we haven't done that yet as I think I remembering the
interval for that 'about every couple of weeks'.

I can get some pictures the next time we are there if it might help.

Any thoughts or advice welcomed please. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On Wed, 27 Jul 2016 08:19:53 +0100, Chris Hogg wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 23:43:47 +0100, T i m wrote:

Hi,

We are looking after some privet plants (buxus sempervirens possibly?)
for a mate and noticed today that some of them have yellowing to the
tips? They are about 70cm in diameter.

Because of the weather and the fact they are in planters (probably 50
x 50 x 50 cm) we have been watering them every second or third day and
wondered if we are over watering them? ;-( FWIW, most of them seem
to drain (a couple pretty quickly) whilst / after watering so I'm
hoping they are draining ok.

I think he suggested about a 1/3rd of a watering can each every other
day if it was really hot and dry and upto maybe a week if it was dull,
cool or rainy?

He also suggested feeding them every couple of weeks (liquid bone
meal?) but we haven't done that yet as I think I remembering the
interval for that 'about every couple of weeks'.

I can get some pictures the next time we are there if it might help.

Any thoughts or advice welcomed please. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

When watering stuff in pots, I rely on sticking a finger in the soil
rather than sticking to a fixed regime. If the soil is dry an inch or
so down, then I water it. But if the soil feels even slightly damp, I
leave it a day before trying again.

Ok, good tip, thanks Chris.

Another way is to lift the pot
plus plant. If it feels light, then it needs water, but this requires
a little more experience of what's light and what's heavy,

Yes, whilst no gardener I've done that in the past and feel it's quite
logical to tell the difference between wet and dry *soil*. Not always
so easy when the plant is in some lighter potting compound / whatever
and some don't seem to have much substance or hold much water?

and a pot
that's not too big to lift in the first place.

And unfortunately that is the case with these. Even rocking them back
on one side suggests how heavy they are (concrete pots painted to look
like terracotta).

Other things I forgot to mention on my first post and have come up
since I've been doing further research and they a

There seem to be quite a few ants (probably 20 or so on the move on
any pot at ant time) coming and going between the pots and somewhere?
If they are unlikely to do any harm then I'll just continue ignoring
them?

There are a couple of yellow / dead 'holes' on some of these plants
that have been there a while (apparently).

I think I have read that feeding these plants with a liquid fertiliser
(he has bone meal of some sort there) isn't the best thing but they
(because they in pots) do need some feed at some point (because the
natural nutrients in the pot will diminish over time).

I have also read these things should have their soil replaced once
every few (3?) years?

Sorry for all the extra questions but I'm trying to understand if
there may be some 'other' causes that may have meant my potential over
watering may have just pushed them too far etc?

Cheers, T i m

p.s. I may have been encouraged to over water them because 1) some of
the pots seem to start draining pretty quickly suggestion you couldn't
over water and 2) because he mentioned a gardener he had previously
left in charge of these privets hadn't been watering them (and unlike
me was being paid to do so). ;-(

On Wed, 27 Jul 2016 10:32:30 +0100, Chris Hogg wrote:

On Wed, 27 Jul 2016 09:37:14 +0100, T i m wrote:

Other things I forgot to mention on my first post and have come up
since I've been doing further research and they a

There seem to be quite a few ants (probably 20 or so on the move on
any pot at ant time) coming and going between the pots and somewhere?
If they are unlikely to do any harm then I'll just continue ignoring
them?

If the ants are established within the pots, it can be a sign of too
dry soil.

Ah.

When you water, you say the pots seem to drain fairly
quickly.

Well, some do Chris (there are quite a few) and so may have never
shown any sign of draining (for the amount of water I have put in).

The pots haven't got too dry at some point in the past, have
they (not necessarily in your care but before) and the soil pulled
away from the edges, and the water just runs down the sides and out of
the bottom, hardly touching the core of soil.

I don't think so (and certainly not in my car) but one that seems to
drain very quickly does seem to have a lower soil level lower than
most of the others.

If that happens,
standing the pots in a bucket of water for half an hour to give them a
really good soak will swell the compost again. Or at the very least,
push the soil into the gap around the top, to block off that direct
path.

Understood. However, I'd probably have to get a crane in to do that.
;-)

Thinking about immersing the pots in water, they're not in pot-saucers
are they, which fill with water and then remain standing in it for
several days? That will definitely keep the soil too wet and may
result in yellowing of the leaves.

These are 50 x 50 x 50cm square (actually tapered out at the top)
concrete planters painted to look like terra cotta. They are very big
and very heavy!

It would be worth checking to see where the ants are coming from. If
they have set up home in the pots, I'd use an ant killer to eliminate
them, such as Nippon http://tinyurl.com/jyby946

So would they potentially affect the privet to the detriment? I have
no problem with them being there if they aren't likely to be doing any
harm?

There are a couple of yellow / dead 'holes' on some of these plants
that have been there a while (apparently).

IIRC there is a fungus disease of privet (rust?) that has caused
problems everywhere in recent years, but I'm not very well up on it.
Someone else may be able to comment.

Ok, thanks anyway.

I think I have read that feeding these plants with a liquid fertiliser
(he has bone meal of some sort there) isn't the best thing but they
(because they in pots) do need some feed at some point (because the
natural nutrients in the pot will diminish over time).

Pot plants certainly need the occasional feed. You mention some sort
of liquid bone meal. I've not come across it, but Googling for it
suggests that it's a 0-12-0 fertiliser (N-P-K,
nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium), which would make sense as bones are
calcium phosphate.

I'll get more information for you re the actual stuff.

But plants need more than just phosphorus, and in
particular they need nitrogen to help keep them green. I'd pop into
your local garden centre or shed and get a small packet of balanced
fertiliser such as Phostrogen and give them a feed with that, and see
what happens http://tinyurl.com/zou6ao3 You might find they green up
quite quickly.

Yes, I have read about a more long term feed that you apply once a
year type of thing.


I have also read these things should have their soil replaced once
every few (3?) years?

Re-potting from a smaller to a larger pot is desirable in the early
years of a plant's life, but once they've reached 'maturity' (how do
you know?!) they can stay in their final pots.

Ah, ok.

While you certainly can
change the soil every few years then, an alternative is just to remove
and replace the top inch or so, which is a whole lot easier to do. But
if these plants are only temporarily in your care, I wouldn't even
think about it.

Understood. I was thinking of more of a long term plan for him
(possibly with my help) if it was recommended by the panel and if it
might minimise any general issues?

Cheers, T i m

On Wed, 27 Jul 2016 10:57:47 +0100, Chris Hogg wrote:

On Wed, 27 Jul 2016 10:32:30 +0100, Chris Hogg wrote:

On Wed, 27 Jul 2016 09:37:14 +0100, T i m wrote:

There are a couple of yellow / dead 'holes' on some of these plants
that have been there a while (apparently).

IIRC there is a fungus disease of privet (rust?) that has caused
problems everywhere in recent years, but I'm not very well up on it.
Someone else may be able to comment.


I've just remembered that what I'm thinking of is box-blight. I'm not
clear whether your mate's plants are privet or box, but here's a link
giving some info on box-blight. http://tinyurl.com/mp9u2vf

Thanks (I think that links takes one to the general site).

These are some articles from their site:

https://www.rhs.org.uk/science/pdf/p...mpages-onwards

https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=96

Cheers, T i m

On 28/07/2016 08:10, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Wed, 27 Jul 2016 11:19:35 +0100, T i m wrote:

On Wed, 27 Jul 2016 10:32:30 +0100, Chris Hogg wrote:

It would be worth checking to see where the ants are coming from. If
they have set up home in the pots, I'd use an ant killer to eliminate
them, such as Nippon http://tinyurl.com/jyby946

So would they potentially affect the privet to the detriment? I have
no problem with them being there if they aren't likely to be doing any
harm?


The RHS has an item on ants in pots http://tinyurl.com/nczvoeg . They
say they do little direct harm to the plants, but IMO their tunnels,
chambers etc keep the soil dry and don't help root development.

I think I have read that feeding these plants with a liquid fertiliser
(he has bone meal of some sort there) isn't the best thing but they
(because they in pots) do need some feed at some point (because the
natural nutrients in the pot will diminish over time).

Pot plants certainly need the occasional feed. You mention some sort
of liquid bone meal. I've not come across it, but Googling for it
suggests that it's a 0-12-0 fertiliser (N-P-K,
nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium), which would make sense as bones are
calcium phosphate.

I'll get more information for you re the actual stuff.

But plants need more than just phosphorus, and in
particular they need nitrogen to help keep them green. I'd pop into
your local garden centre or shed and get a small packet of balanced
fertiliser such as Phostrogen and give them a feed with that, and see
what happens http://tinyurl.com/zou6ao3 You might find they green up
quite quickly.

Yes, I have read about a more long term feed that you apply once a
year type of thing.

ITYM slow release fertilisers. These are usually pelletised, with a
core of fertiliser surrounded by a permeable or degradable coating,
which allows the fertiliser slowly to leach out into the soil. IME
they're usually added to the compost before the plant is potted up,
but they can be scattered over the soil surface and a little bit of
fertiliser is leached down into the soil with each watering.

I wonder if you are worrying about nothing.
There is a variety of box that has yellow tips
see http://www.buxus-sempervirens.co.uk/...ves/4567844307

On Thu, 28 Jul 2016 09:37:33 +0100, David Hill
wrote:

snip

I wonder if you are worrying about nothing.

I would love to know that was the case David. ;-)

There is a variety of box that has yellow tips
see http://www.buxus-sempervirens.co.uk/...ves/4567844307

Erm, that seems to suggest the tips are yellow because of the plant
suffering some form of stress or did you mean to include a different
link?

I spoke to Mum yesterday (a very keen gardener) and she suggested that
if the pots drained (and some seem to do so quite quickly) that there
was little chance of over watering them. But is there a difference
between 'mostly damp' and 'properly wet' AFA these plants are
concerned?

Also, would spraying water on the trunk (by accident) cause such a
plant 'stress' (assuming it is a stress thing) do you think? I ask
because the plant overhangs the top of the pot so without spraying
water all over the plant (with little idea how much is going to the
roots) I sneak the hose nozzle under the foliage at the corner of the
pot and water from there?

After watering I will often also lift the foliage at different
locations just to check how the water is being spread and whilst I
sometimes see some slight pudding, it soon soaks in. There is no way
it 'backing up' as such.

Lastly, I mentioned elsewhere I haven't added the (liquid) fertiliser
(yet) but according to the example on your link, a lack of appropriate
nutrients would tend to make the leaves turn more brown all over than
yellow at the tips?

Again, sorry for all the silly questions. It's just that there are
quite a few of these plants, I'm aware they aren't cheap and I really
don't want to be doing anything to put them at risk. ;-(

Cheers, T i m

On 28/07/2016 10:34, T i m wrote:
On Thu, 28 Jul 2016 09:37:33 +0100, David Hill
wrote:

snip

I wonder if you are worrying about nothing.

I would love to know that was the case David. ;-)

There is a variety of box that has yellow tips
see http://www.buxus-sempervirens.co.uk/...ves/4567844307

Erm, that seems to suggest the tips are yellow because of the plant
suffering some form of stress or did you mean to include a different
link?

I spoke to Mum yesterday (a very keen gardener) and she suggested that
if the pots drained (and some seem to do so quite quickly) that there
was little chance of over watering them. But is there a difference
between 'mostly damp' and 'properly wet' AFA these plants are
concerned?

Also, would spraying water on the trunk (by accident) cause such a
plant 'stress' (assuming it is a stress thing) do you think? I ask
because the plant overhangs the top of the pot so without spraying
water all over the plant (with little idea how much is going to the
roots) I sneak the hose nozzle under the foliage at the corner of the
pot and water from there?

After watering I will often also lift the foliage at different
locations just to check how the water is being spread and whilst I
sometimes see some slight pudding, it soon soaks in. There is no way
it 'backing up' as such.

Lastly, I mentioned elsewhere I haven't added the (liquid) fertiliser
(yet) but according to the example on your link, a lack of appropriate
nutrients would tend to make the leaves turn more brown all over than
yellow at the tips?

Again, sorry for all the silly questions. It's just that there are
quite a few of these plants, I'm aware they aren't cheap and I really
don't want to be doing anything to put them at risk. ;-(

Cheers, T i m

Sorry,
Was on my way out and just went for the picture which is typical of
Buxus sempervirens Gold Tip also known as B. sempervirens "Notata"
David @ a damp side of Swansea Bay

On Thu, 28 Jul 2016 13:02:11 +0100, Chris Hogg wrote:

On Thu, 28 Jul 2016 10:34:15 +0100, T i m wrote:


Lastly, I mentioned elsewhere I haven't added the (liquid) fertiliser
(yet) but according to the example on your link, a lack of appropriate
nutrients would tend to make the leaves turn more brown all over than
yellow at the tips?

From http://tinyurl.com/jm6gvky

"The visual symptoms of nitrogen deficiency mean that it can be
relatively easy to detect in some plant species. Symptoms include poor
plant growth, and leaves that are pale green or yellow because they
are unable to make sufficient chlorophyll. Leaves in this state are
said to be chlorotic."

Watering with a little dilute well-balanced fertiliser will do them no
harm.

Thank for that Chris, would you think the symptoms would have come
out so quickly if that was the issue.

I'd try it at half recommended strength to start with, say once
a month.

Ok. As mentioned my mate has requested the fortnightly use of a liquid
fertiliser and so that is due about now.

Cheers, T i m

On Thu, 28 Jul 2016 13:07:40 +0100, David Hill
wrote:

snip
There is a variety of box that has yellow tips
see http://www.buxus-sempervirens.co.uk/...ves/4567844307

Erm, that seems to suggest the tips are yellow because of the plant
suffering some form of stress or did you mean to include a different
link?

snip


Sorry,

No problems David, as long as I'm not going mad(er). ;-)

Was on my way out and just went for the picture which is typical of
Buxus sempervirens Gold Tip also known as B. sempervirens "Notata"

It *could* be that these leaves have had this colouring all along but
I don't think so. I watered them over a couple of weeks a while back
and my mate commented on how healthy the looked on his return.

This time round I have tried to react to the much hotter weather by
watering them more frequently and with more water (on the basis that
any surplus will drain out in any case?) so really don't know what's
happened (what is the cause etc).

It could well be that they do this at this time of year ... or in
particularly hot weather ... but I'm concerned it is a result of some
'stress'. ;-(

So, if when I go there next and test the soil with my fingers ... if
it still feels damp an inch or so below the surface I'll not water it
any further?

Cheers, T i m

On Thu, 28 Jul 2016 20:09:02 +0100, Chris Hogg wrote:

On Thu, 28 Jul 2016 18:02:12 +0100, T i m wrote:

On Thu, 28 Jul 2016 13:02:11 +0100, Chris Hogg wrote:

Watering with a little dilute well-balanced fertiliser will do them no
harm.

Thank for that Chris, would you think the symptoms would have come
out so quickly if that was the issue.

I might have missed it, but I don't recall you mentioning the speed at
which the symptoms appeared before.

Well, it was as if I watered them one day and they were all green
(leaves) and then a couple of days later they had these green tips to
maybe 25% of the leaves?

Not that I'd have been much the
wiser!

You and me both then! ;-(

Any chance of a picture?

Yes, I was due to go there today but didn't for various reasons (one
being that I didn't feel I should be watering them again for now). I
will try to get up there tomorrow, take some pics and report back.

Don't post it here directly, but put
it on an image-hosting site such as Tinypic and post the link here
(like I did for Worrizzit).

Understood. I'll probably just share them via my Dropbox account.

It may not help diagnose what's happening,
but you never know.

Well, I'm all for the 'a picture speaks 1000 words' and I think that
is especially true in this case.

Cheers, T i m

On Thu, 28 Jul 2016 20:09:02 +0100, Chris Hogg wrote:

Any chance of a picture?

Right, this is typical of several of the shrubs:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...20tips%201.jpg

And this is the feed he asked me to use (that I said was bonemeal or
summat):

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5772409/Seaweed.jpg

After going there today it's possible the yellowing has receded
slightly (if that possible) so I'm not quite so concerned.

There are a few 'holes' in the foliage on some of the plants and they
look like this: (full size pic).

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...rub%20hole.jpg

I also did an experiment of the use of the hose versus a 10l watering
can. With one of those telescoping hoses it took about a minute to
fill one can so if I was giving the plants two 20 second blasts then
that was about 7l of water / pot? If I was doing so during the hot
weather, would that be considered 'excessive'?

The 'finger in the soil test' on those shrubs and it started to feel
'not dry' after about 25mm below the surface. In contrast, a couple of
palms he has in 1m square planters did feel quite dry a fair way down
(but we hadn't watered either for about 4 days).

Sorry it took so long to get back with any real info. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On Sun, 31 Jul 2016 18:44:00 +0100, Chris Hogg wrote:

snip
Right, this is typical of several of the shrubs:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...20tips%201.jpg


They look very similar to the first image here, which occurs when the
plants are under stress, which doesn't tell you much other than
they're not happy, which you knew anyway.
http://www.buxus-sempervirens.co.uk/...ves/4567844307

Quite. ;-(

snip

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5772409/Seaweed.jpg

Although the NPK figures aren't visible, and Maxicrop seem reluctant
to advertise what it is in their plain seaweed fertiliser, it's
probably reasonably well balanced so should be OK and no need to get
anything else.

Ok thanks. Daughter found some granulated fertiliser in Poundland and
has tried some on her own stuff. Might keep an eye on how it goes.

http://www.poundland.co.uk/horticare...ertiliser-1-kg

Dilute it as per instructions.

I used a small bottle to measure about 50ml to a 10l watering can. The
instructions I was left with was 'about 2" in the bottom of the
watering can' so what would be the consequences of adding it in such a
concentration do you think?


There are a few 'holes' in the foliage on some of the plants and they
look like this: (full size pic).

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...rub%20hole.jpg

There's obviously been some dieback in places. It happens with all
sorts of shrubs from time to time. It might be just one of those
things, or it might be box blight. Either way there's not much you can
do about it.

Ok, thanks Chris. So there isn't any pruning or anything you can do to
stimulate any further growth in that area?

I also did an experiment of the use of the hose versus a 10l watering
can. With one of those telescoping hoses it took about a minute to
fill one can so if I was giving the plants two 20 second blasts then
that was about 7l of water / pot? If I was doing so during the hot
weather, would that be considered 'excessive'?

Difficult to say. 7l seems a lot, but they're big planters. I guess it
depends also on how often you watered them. If it was 7l every day,
then perhaps too much, but 7l once or maybe twice a week, probably OK.

I guess we also come back to the question of how quickly / much water
runs out after watering. Talking to an old gardener friend the other
day (whilst sorting out his technical kit for him) he suggested it
would be ok to drench them (as he does his) *as long* as any of the
surplus water drains out?

It could just be that they didn't like the really hot weather (or you
can at least tell your mate that's what it was!)

Good call! weg

Cheers, T i m

On Sun, 31 Jul 2016 20:17:07 +0100, Chris Hogg wrote:

On Sun, 31 Jul 2016 19:39:23 +0100, T i m wrote:

On Sun, 31 Jul 2016 18:44:00 +0100, Chris Hogg wrote:

Dilute it as per instructions.

I used a small bottle to measure about 50ml to a 10l watering can. The
instructions I was left with was 'about 2" in the bottom of the
watering can' so what would be the consequences of adding it in such a
concentration do you think?

The label says 45ml in 9 litres for mature plants and growing on, so
you're right on the nail. 2" in the bottom of a watering can sounds
much too strong. It could damage the roots. Always better too weak
than too strong.

Thanks and understood.

There are a few 'holes' in the foliage on some of the plants and they
look like this: (full size pic).

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...rub%20hole.jpg

There's obviously been some dieback in places. It happens with all
sorts of shrubs from time to time. It might be just one of those
things, or it might be box blight. Either way there's not much you can
do about it.

Ok, thanks Chris. So there isn't any pruning or anything you can do to
stimulate any further growth in that area?

If they were mine, I'd cut out the dead twigs as far back as the
deadness extends, just to allow light to get in and new growth to fill
the gap, and to improve their appearance. But as they're not yours,
and IIRC your mate said it's been happening for a while, I'd not touch
them.

Indeed. I was just wondering if there was anything 'obvious
commonplace' that one does.

Anyway, if it's box blight, I don't think just cutting out the
brown bits is going to stop it.

Ok.

Cheers, T i m