On Aug 20, 7:24*pm, "Dioclese" NONE wrote:
"Herb and Eneva" wrote in ...

*What`s the best way to store a lawnmower for the coming winter?
Should I change the oil now or wait untill spring? What about sta-bil?
Last year I started all of the small engines once a month. That seemed
to work but sometimes was a real pain. What do y`all do?

Just an observation for the naive readers. *Does not matter if you sharpen
or change the blades at the end of the season, or the beginning of the
season. *Same for air filter or spark plug changes.

The primary reason for gasoline problems is water intrusion. *A marginally
filled gas tank in an environment that changes humidity levels quite often
is very susceptible to that. *Unlikely to occur in a mostly closed garage or
a tight storage shed as the ambient temperature doesn't vary that much.

I don't know where your garage or shed is, but here in NJ mine goes
from below freezing to 90 degrees. Is your shed air conditioned?
It's not the humidity levels that need to change, only that there be
some reasonable amount of humidity and temp swings like you typically
get in a shed or garage. Say there is 60% humidity. It could stay
at that level all year long. As long as the temp cycles, you get
condensation inside the fuel storage tank.




*For
long term storage, in terms of a year or more, drygas or similar additive is
recommended if retaining full gas tank.

And most would say bad things can happen to gas in far less time than
a year and that if you're storing it for even winter, you need to add
a fuel stabliizer. Which, BTW, is different than dry gas. What
would you rather pay for, 50 cents worth of fuel stabilizer, or a carb
dissassembly and cleaning?





*However, in those cases, running
the mower till the tank is empty is not recommended.

And I've seen small engine manuals that specifically state the best
way to store that engine is to run it dry. RTFM. When you buy them
they aren't full of gas, are they?




*Reason being is the
empty gas tank is more prone to rust internally.

Doesn't matter when you change the oil.

While you see a problem with fuel contamination over time, you don't
see a similar problem in having the engine internals sit in
contaminated and broken down oil all winter? It would seem to me that
it's better to have the engine filled with clean fresh oil for 5
months, which is what you get if you change it before storage.



*Minimum, once a year. *More if the
engine is severely worn., or, if used excessively. *

Most of the ones I've seen call for a change once a year or 50 hours.
What exactly is "excessively"? RTFM.



Yes, a hot engine
reduces the viscosity of the oil, and, assures more drainage of same.
That's more important in colder climates. *But, the ambient temperature from
Maine to Texas in late summer is not variant enough to worry about a hot
engine before draining the oil. *The resulting difference in volume of oil
during drainage is extremely negligible vs. a hot engine.

The most important difference is storage time, that will be much different
in Maine vs. Texas. *Texans may be mowing as early as February to as late a
November as an example, nevermind any climate change.

You don't need to start a lawnmower engine during storage. *Same for an
automobile for that matter, difference, disconnect the battery ground cable.

Yes, and if you don't put a battery tender on it, be prepared to put a
new battery in every year or two, car or lawn equipment.




--
Dave